Stihl M170 Chainsaw Repair or Service Centre

coffer


Joined: 13/02/2007
Posts: 292

Message Posted:
12/11/2009 18:10

Hi,

Anybody know someone who can service my machine? It has been cutting out after running for a few minutes sounds like fuel starvation. I have replaced the spark plug cleaned the fuel tank etc and also taken it to a service centre in Lefkosia. Came back no different after a so called service!



Anyway appreciate your advice.

MarkVPiazza


Joined: 14/08/2008
Posts: 530

Message Posted:
12/11/2009 18:13

Coffer



Have you checked the mesh filter that lives in the fuel tank?



Also, there could be a blocked breather that let's air into the void when fuel is used.



Mark

coffer


Joined: 13/02/2007
Posts: 292

Message Posted:
12/11/2009 18:18

Oh, Well I've checked the filter yes, no idea where the breather is, can you give me a pointer or should I just strip the whole fuel system down?

MarkVPiazza


Joined: 14/08/2008
Posts: 530

Message Posted:
12/11/2009 18:23

Try running it with the fuel cap off - if it doesn't cut out, you have found your problem area



Mark

coffer


Joined: 13/02/2007
Posts: 292

Message Posted:
12/11/2009 18:31

Will do cheers, let you know how I get on. I assume there are no service centres or private individuals then folks?

cyprusharv


Joined: 16/12/2008
Posts: 423

Message Posted:
12/11/2009 20:06

There's a Cypriot guy who does reliable service to chainsaws on the Bellapais road just before the petrol station, 20 metres down left.

Turtle


Joined: 28/05/2007
Posts: 2669

Message Posted:
12/11/2009 20:43

Coffer, classic case of carb probs......high and low settings on the carb needs attention we get them in everyday and a quick tweek usually does the job.

Take a look at page 40 of the link the manual is for a 026 model but the adjustments are the same on em all.....good luck



http://www.stihlusa.com/stihl_ownersmanuals/026_Manual.pdf

coffer


Joined: 13/02/2007
Posts: 292

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 00:06

Thanks for all the input.

nostradamus


Joined: 15/04/2008
Posts: 557

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 07:57

The Stihl main agent is in Guzelyurt. They also stock very good quality chain suitable for cutting olive wood. They are an agricultural supply company. Can't remember their name but if anybody wants directions, I can help. Ring me on: 0542-8518421

Tenakoutou



Joined: 27/07/2009
Posts: 4110

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 09:46

My Stihl had been stored for two years. Firstly, I mixed up fresh fuel (unleaded 95/ 25:1 super two stroke oil).



I fired her up the other day to do a wee bit of tree surgery. But she was very difficult to start. Several times I overchoked her and had to whip the plug out and dry it - while out, pull the starter cord multiple times to clear the crankcase.



When she started, she was running erratically and couldn't reach max revs, then would suddenly stop. Also, she wouldn't idle - just cut out.



Obviously, something was 'gummed up', because after running through 3-4 tankfuls, she seemed to settle down.



What part is likely to have been gummed up - does a Stihl have a reed valve induction system, as these are often prone to problems?



MarkVpiazza - Turtle - any ideas - and should I, in future, put a few drops of auto transmission oil in the (empty) fuel tank and then turn the motor over several times, before putting the saw back into storage - would this help?

Hippo


Joined: 02/02/2007
Posts: 2070

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 10:33

The main problem's with chainsaws are bad fuel, bad maintenance and bad operating.

Unleaded fuel has a shelf life of only 7/10 days before it starts to degrade, the tilson carb that is used in chainsaws has a microfilter this can become choked with degrading fuel cells but more commonly residue from old fuel.

Rule one. if you are not using your chainsaw on a regular basis ie. every week then empty the tank and run the carb dry. Buy only enough fuel that you need do not leave fuel lying in a can from one month to the next. use proper two stroke mix and mix accurately.



Most casual users do little or no maintenance, daily you should clean the air-filter. other maintenance should be carried out as chainsaw users guide.



The most common cause of chainsaw problems are bad operating and in that cutting with a blunt chain. if i am working with a chainsaw i sharpen it at least once every 20/30 mins or more if required.

A chainsaw should produce chips not sawdust.

Hippo


Joined: 02/02/2007
Posts: 2070

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 10:40

If sawdust is produced it clogs the air filter this caused the mixture to weaken the saw run hot and causes what is known as lean burn, this damages the piston and liner and seizes the saw.

You should use a file guide to sharpen the chain unless you really know what you are doing and don't forget to reduce the depth gauges as required.

The chainsaw is the most abused tool that is in use.

It also produces the most horrific injuries remember a chain doesn't cut it rips.

Always use protective clothing, the most common chainsaw injury is to the inside of the thigh, the femoral artery runs here serve ring that you don't have very long to live before you bleed to death.

A blunt saw is much more dangerous than a Sharp one.

Do not meddle with the chain-guard it is designed to stop the saw in event of kick back.

The most important thing is don't lend your saw out.

MarkVPiazza


Joined: 14/08/2008
Posts: 530

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 11:21

Good advice from Hippo



Are you sure 25-1 is the right mix, most modern tools are 50-1 minimum - too much 2 stroke oil will foul the plug and result in poor running.



As Hippo says, the best thing to do is use the engine regularly, if not run it so there is no fuel left, otherwise the petrol/oil will gum up the fine passageways in the carb.



If you do want to store, you should "fog" the inside of the cylinder with some oil - remove spark plug and spray some light oil inside, then pull the cord gently a couple of times so the oil covers the whole bore before replacing the plug



Mark

Turtle


Joined: 28/05/2007
Posts: 2669

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 11:30

Have to agree with everything hippo has just said, most of the 2 strokes we deal with that have problems are usually operator error !

Always use Stihl 2 stoke oil (50/1) very high quality and minimises running and starting problems keep your chain sharp with a 30deg angle on the cutting link.

Petrol today goes stale very quickly and causes all sorts of problems with garden machinery that has a long lay off during the winter so as hippo says if you are not using your kit for a long period run it dry and leave the tank empy.

Hippo


Joined: 02/02/2007
Posts: 2070

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 11:41

25/1 went out years ago, modern chainsaws run on 50/1 or with some specialised oils on 100/1.



The Shtill individual sachets of two stroke are idiot proof.



The other thing I forgot to mention is chain oil, use a proper chain oil not engine oil.

Chain oil is anti throw, it will stick to the chain rather then fling off it.



Also a chain saw is designed to cut wet wood, roughly 2 tanks of petrol to q tank of oil.

If you are cutting dry wood or timber baulks etc you need to turn up the oil feed usually inside the chain casing or underneath.

JohhnyLee


Joined: 25/04/2009
Posts: 2495

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 11:50

Just a tip, are you aware that you have to have a licence here to own a chain saw, havn,t used mine since we got here,

I was warned by a local if you use it in Baspinar you willl have the tree police (as he called them) here within minutes.

I thought thats a bit dramatic. We have sveral dead trees on our own land. And we burn logs, so it makes sense to sort them, But i took on board what he said, and phoned the cypriot tree surgeon, who said to me yes you must have a licence,

So he get,s his chainsaw out and satrt,s the job, My god within 20 minutes the tree police arrived, and would you believe it the tree surgeon didn,t have a licence , and yes they consficated his chainsaw on the spot.

Then they informed me that I am not allowed to cut tree,s even on my land, even when they are dead.If I want to fell a tree they have to come and OK it

I can prune but not fell. I think that a licence is only a few Lira.

colly


Joined: 31/07/2008
Posts: 297

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 11:54

It will almost certainly be 50:1 ratio.



If you fill the oil every time you fill the petrol you will never run out of oil. You may as well as the machine is stopped for fuel.



Ifrom cold find that a pull or 2 pulls with the choke out then put the choke fully in or very partially out is normally enough to prevent flooding. If you keep pulling with the choke fully out I find it leads to problems.



Col

Hippo


Joined: 02/02/2007
Posts: 2070

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 11:56

'cypriot tree surgeon' that has got to be the biggest joke on here this year!!!

colly


Joined: 31/07/2008
Posts: 297

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 11:57

If nothing else you should invest in chainsaw trousers as suggested (and helmet). You should (god willing) survive a cut to the foot but go through the big one in your leg and chances are it's bye bye



Col

Tenakoutou



Joined: 27/07/2009
Posts: 4110

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 23:36

My Stihl chainsaw is an 011 - the user manual states: 50:1 mix per litre, or 25:1 for other branded two-stroke engine oils. I use the latter - perfectly good!



I always check sharpness and chain tension and sharpen or adjust when necessary - I don't use a file guide. I always check chain lube oil tank every motor tank refill - I don't use 'no-throw' oil, only 20-50, or even good old SAE30. Also, when job done I clean all filters, check spark arrestor and undo chain sprocket cover and dismantle bar assembly and thoroughly clean out all 'crud' and sawdust, then turn the bar over when refitting to ensure even wear. I regularly check the spark plug gap.



I'm fairly used to doing my own chainsaw maintenance, having worked in the New Zealand forestry and owning my own fruit orchard - so, I can fairly say I've used various brands of saws for the past 45 years; amoung them: McCulloch, Husquvarna, Blizzard, and Stihl. My most reliable and vibration-free saw was Husquvarna!

Tenakoutou



Joined: 27/07/2009
Posts: 4110

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 23:38

I omitted to write: 50:1 mix per litre for Stihl 2 stroke oil.

Turtle


Joined: 28/05/2007
Posts: 2669

Message Posted:
13/11/2009 23:50

It dosen't matter what mix you mix so long as you mix what it says on the bottle.

Some oil is better quality than others and some you have to use twice as much oil.

The oil only lubricates the moving parts of the engine and gets thrown out of the exhaust so the better the quality of oil the longer the saw lasts.



Did you know Andreas Stihl invented the chain saw ?

Hippo


Joined: 02/02/2007
Posts: 2070

Message Posted:
14/11/2009 08:10

I know this thread is probably becoming tedious to some but i must stress the importance of using proper chain oil as opposed to engine oil.

For over 10 years now the use of mineral oil has been banned in all of Britain's Forests, sites of scientific interest and all ecological sensitive areas.

Mineral oil is harmful to the environment and has also been proved to be carcinogenic.

Studies at Alice Holt have proved that the use of proper chain oil can increase the life of a chain by up to a third.

I thought that our NZ friend being an Orchard operator would have been aware of this especially as the care of trees is paramount to success.

Biodegradable chain oil has a base of Rape Seed oil with other additives.

As regards the purchase of chainsaws my recommendation is either Shtill, Husqvarna, Dolmar, Jonsread pay a little extra and go for the professional models.

For firewood production go for something between 49 and 65 cc with about a (22 inch 55cm) bar and use 3/8 super chisel.

rigsby


Joined: 21/09/2007
Posts: 912

Message Posted:
14/11/2009 13:36

Hippo,When i had my sthil i used gear oil for the chain,because no one then had any chain oil.Unless you went south.

Turtle


Joined: 28/05/2007
Posts: 2669

Message Posted:
14/11/2009 16:27

If you run out of chain oil the I suppose any oil is better than none in emergency but if used regular as already said it just flings off the chain and you use gallons instead of small amounts of the proper stuff.



believe me I see chains daily that have had no oil near them and they are only fit for the bin, you also need to be aware if you dont use oil the bar will start to "blue" and wear because of heat and the chain track will splay out and then becomes dangerous

Tenakoutou



Joined: 27/07/2009
Posts: 4110

Message Posted:
14/11/2009 18:38

Hippo! - Your NZ cobber is aware of the 'oil issue' - but in the forestry - indeed, on my fruit orchard (exporting apples & pears to UK), 30 years ago there weren't such stipulations. Anyway, how much sump oil do you think gets chucked out of crankcase breathers on farm tractors and bulldozers, etc - more than any piddly, little chainsaw, for sure! OK, so we don't want to be polluting 'Mother Earth' any more than necessary (tell the Cyps!) - I agree with that, but I'm maybe only using my Stihl a coupla three times a year.



Yeah, mine runs a Picco chain with 3/8" chain pitch - minimum depth 0.2" (5mm) - I don't use Rollomatic bars; just the Duromatic type. I never run the chain too tight - just enough tension so it won't jump the bar! That's sort of like cruising down the hill in neutral (we call that 'Maori overdrive' in NZ!) - cos brake linings are cheaper than gearboxes!



Did anyone see the film 'Chainsaw Massacre'?



'Chainsaw Police' - that's gotta be a 'wind-up', surely?

straitasadie


Joined: 14/09/2009
Posts: 450

Message Posted:
15/11/2009 08:11

i have a brand new in the box husqvarna 445e for sale if interested

Tenakoutou



Joined: 27/07/2009
Posts: 4110

Message Posted:
15/11/2009 09:35

Hey, straitasadie - ssshhhh! - The 'chainsaw police' might descend on you and confiscate (read 'steal') your Husqvarna!